Villa Danieli in Sheraton Imperial: Bring an Extra Stomach

What: Villa Danieli, Sheraton Imperial, KL

When: January 2013

Food: Italian

Rating: 9/10

“Happy anniversary!” I tell Chef Alessandro as we shake hands over the serving counter at his culinary ship Villa Danieli. He smiles amid the swirl and the noise of the busy kitchen, “it’s hard to believe I have been here a whole year,” he nods.

It has indeed been a whole year since this young Italian took over the white hat in the Sheraton Imperial’s fine Italian restaurant, and while it may have been one of hard work for Alessandro, for me it has been one of delicious meals and spectacular combinations enjoyed at one of the tables within the cosy, pillar-lined, tiled, slice of Italy that Villa Danieli epitomises, right down to the iron balconies and the view of the swimming pool outside the window.

Step into Italy...

Awaiting the diners for the epic food marathon

In conjunction with his landmark moment, Chef Alessandro has created a new menu to show the country what he is made of, and the 42-item list covers all courses of the typical, epic Italian meal and features some old favourites from the usual menu and some intriguing newbies, all of which curl away in long Italian names and will tempt you into a wonderful indecision...what to eat? Where to start?

I was lucky. Not only was the duty of selecting a meal relinquished during my night at Villa Danieli, myself and my fellow diners were to enjoy 24 of the new dishes during a food marathon that would demand the very most of our eating capabilities. Not everyone was going to make it.

Sundried tomato paste (I could eat a vat of this)

We vowed not to each too much of the freshly baked bread that came to the table, but the soft ciabatta and the blackened charcoal rolls, once dipped in the tangy sun-dried tomato paste that appeared before us, were just too tempting.

Freshly baked bread for dipping

Catalana-style Poached King Prawn Salad

The meal started with the Antipasti selection, and any of the four on the menu are perfect opportunities for beginning your appreciation of Italian fare and sharing with friends (if you can bear to share). Chef Alessandro guided us towards the Catalana-style Poached King Prawns Salad (Insalata di Gameroni alla Catalana) which is his personal favourite, while I loved the Spicy Cod Cerviche (Cervice di Merluzzo Piccante). The addition of a spicy marinade made the gentle cod dance on the tongue, while the crispy fried calamari and accompanying wild garlic, bell pepper veloute, olive dust, and potato emulsion came together in a filling, tasty, earthy combination.

Spicy Cod Cerviche with crispy Fried Calamari

Soft-as-cream Burrata cheese (Burrata di Mozzarella di Bufala) is also a top option – the intense creaminess is paired perfectly with the tangy cherry tomatoes – and the Wagyu Beef Cheek Carpaccio (Carpaccio di manzo Wagyu) was as thin as air and laden with a parmesan cheese mousse that was intense and delicious.

A Wagyu Beef Cheek Carpaccio to rival all others

Soooo much more than Mushroom Soup

I would probably not have bothered with soup (Zuppe) had it been my choice, but learn from my error and do not skip these two beauties on the menu. Stupendous! I started with the darling little cup of Creama di Funghi Selvatici al Tartufo, or Wild Mushroom, Truffle-Scented Soup, which was utterly divine in its rich earth flavour, lightened with a touch of ricotta cheese mousse and accompanied by a swizzle stick of crunchy bread stick.

Unexpectedly brilliant was the Crema di Broccoli Piccante – the Spicy Broccoli Cream with Rock Lobster – in which Chef A has allowed the spices of Asia to bring this humble vegetable to new levels.

Spicy Broccoli Cream with Rock Lobster

Pasta is close to the heart of any Italian, and when not one, but seven varieties arrived at our table, we could barely contain our glee! A whole range of pasta types are paired with creamy sauces, tomato sauces, meats, seafood, cheese and dots of vegetables to offer an option for any taste and preference.

Creamy, classic Ravioli al Quattro Formaggi

Light, tasty rigatoni with Beef Ragout

For my personal tastes, I adored the intensely creamy Ravioli al Quattro Formaggi (Four Cheese Ravioli), which added a nutty walnut sauce to enhance the always-excellent combination of cheese, while the Rigatoni con Ragout di Manzo al la Florentina  (Florentine-style Rigatoni with Beef Ragout) covered slippery pasta with a creamy, vegetable-laden ragout that had only a light hint of beef, making this a lighter option for those who aren’t monster meat eaters.

Saffron Risotto with soft-as-cake Beef Cheek

For some serious meat, head to the Risotto allo Zafferano; this saffron risotto is oozing flavour and topped with a tender beef cheek that falls apart with the tug of a fork. The La Fettuccine al l’Aragosta di Boston was a popular dish on the table too – fresh egg fettucini loaded with a wonderful tomato sauce and a large mound of pan-seared Boston lobster.

I desperately tried to drag myself from the pasta dishes to taste the pizzas that came speeding from the pizza oven to our table, and the three on the special menu offer an option for whatever your tastes. 

Buffalo Mozarella and Cherry Tomatoes: if it ain't broke...

Steering clear of meat? The Bufalina tops their tin, crisp base with Buffalo mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, and fresh basil (always a delicious combination), while meat-seekers would be tempted towards the Parma, which surprised me with its topping of sea salt aged Beef Ham (Luxury Bovinus) alongside parmesan, mozzarella, and argula.

Chewy aged beef with cheese is an intriguing, tasty mix

The beef ham was chewy but so tasty, especially with the powerful parmesan and lighter mozzarella, and I thought I had found my favourite...until....the Pietmontese. I had been on the phone when this beauty arrived, and as I returned to the table, my companions forced a piece onto my plate – “you have to taste this!” they ordered.

The Pizza to rival all Pizzas: Pietmontese

It didn't last long....

A light, crisp base is buttered with marscapone cheese rather than tomato, and then loaded with more cheese and topped with fresh Black Uncinato Truffle and drizzled with white truffle oil. This is so rich, so creamy, so earthy, and so heavenly delicious, I can only say you would be foolish not to order it if you have ever appreciated a truffle. Wow.

The marathon was not yet over however – meat and fish dishes were up next! These are usually my favourite at an Italian restaurant, and the special menu offered three meat dishes (lamb, steak, and veal) and three fish dishes (cod, sea bass carpaccio, Turbot fillet). 

Fassone Beef Herbs Roasted Medallion Sirloin Steak

My pick of the former would be the Controfiletto di Fassone Piemontese Rosolato al le erbe (Fassone Beef Herbs Roasted Medallion Sirloin Steak), which accompanied the pinky, soft meat with mushrooms, delicately poached quail eggs, cheeses, truffle fondue, and more fresh truffle. But then the Ossobuco di Vitello Stracotto (Veal Ossobuco) just seemed to melt away on the tongue, with the accompanying cheesy polenta and lemon parsley gremolata leaving the tangy taste,

Veal Ossobuco that melts in the mouth

Sea Bass Carpaccio

Fish dishes were brilliant – the excellent sea bass carpaccio (Scottata di Branzino al sale Marinato) which I tasted on a previous visit, was back on the menu, while my fork kept returning to the Medaglione di Merluzzo (Cod Medallion Stew). The light, soft cod was mixed with a tangy, warming tomato-based stew full of capers and chunks of vegetables, and the lemon parsley gremolata was a herby, sourish companion.

Cod Medallion Stew - tangy and filling

 I was, I confess, defeated by the main courses, but the others gamely ploughed on into dessert, where three options await those who are wise to how good Chef Alessandro’s desserts are. The Chef’s Super Chocolate Combination (Il Cioccolatissimo dello Chef) sent the boys at the table into raptures with its richness, while the ladies went for the winning Rosemary Creme Brulee. A signature Tirramisu completes a classic line up of puds and will bring you to the end of a spectacular food journey, if you have the stomach space.

If the past year hasn’t seen you visit Villa Danieli to try out Chef Alessandro’s fabulous cooking, make it your ‘must-do’ this month – this special menu stands testament to his skills and creative flair. Expect the classic dishes brought to life with a twist that will surprise and delight you.

The special menu is only available until the end of February 2013 and prices start at RM38++. 

Chef Alessandro – many thanks, it was a gastronomical pleasure, as always; thanks also to Edna for the invite and charming company, and the staff at Villa Danieli for looking after a large table of diners (with a lot of food!) so masterfully.

Villa Danieli

Sheraton Imperial

Jalan Sultan Ismail

50250 KL

Malaysia

03.2717 9922

www.sheraton.com/
imperialkualalumpur

Open: Monday-Friday 12pm-2.30pm, 
Monday-Saturday 6.30pm-10.30pm, (closed Sundays 
and public holidays)

Halal