Mediteca at Frasers Place: Span-talian Comfort

What: Mediteca, Frasers Place, KL

When: February 2013

Food: tapas

Rating: 7/10

Chef Riccardo Ferrarotti is not interested in meeting anyone in the middle; adapting, flexing to the apparent demands of the Asian tongue. He is an Italian chef, and he is damned if he is going to serve anything but authentic European flavours. “My food is simple,” he tells me as I take the last few mouthfuls of my meal. “It’s traditional, European food. I am not going to be adding in spices or change things to match the Asian flavours.”

Pick up some goodies after you dine

Thank goodness for that! Using products he imports himself from Europe (of such a high quality that many hotels buy from him), Chef Riccardo refuses to compromise on his edibles and delivers up a menu that can fool you into thinking you have slipped through the rabbit hole back to the sunny streets of Madrid fused with Rome’s squares.

A well-designed interior makes all the difference

Spanish tapas and Italian enoteca (Span-talian, anyone?) combine at Mediteca produce a list of tapas, salads, soups, meats, pastas, and puds that are reasonably priced and carefully executed. The environment is equally reassuring – located on a bustling corner of downtown KL (a mere hop and skip from the Twin Towers), the tall space is stylish, modern, and yet comfortable, with flowers on the tables, funky naked bulbs hanging from the ceiling, and wood-panelling that softens the space and soothes the senses.

A deli counter, a more private upstairs, and a spacious downstairs come together to offer ample space for the busy weekends, but the Thursday of my visit was a quiet one, allowing the chef plenty of time to produce a three-course meal of delicate comfort.

Splash of pink pleases this foodie girl :)

Wild night out for us: tea and coffee all round!

Crunchy, herby breadsticks arrived within minutes of us, and then fluffy foccacia bread served with a dish of freshly grated pile of rich parmesan – simple pleasures. We had opted for teas rather than wines, but there is an impressive wine and beverage list for those looking for a more appropriate drink to take them through their meal.

Could anything be softer than fresh parmesan?

Tapas tapas, the genius invention of the Spanish who saw the need for edibles to soak up the much-needed glasses of alcohol, came in a trio, and my first grab was for the Brocheta de Entrecote (RM6 for small, RM16 for large). A skewer released its prisoners of slightly chewy beef strip loin and roasted garlic, the latter of which was gloriously caramalised and served to sweeten the partnership, while a red wine reduction needed scooping from the plate in a mash of puree. 

Beef loin and garlic makes for a tasty bite

Second stop was the Gambas al Ajillo (RM20 for full portion), and we were made ever more smelly (but happy) by the crunchy exterior of the prawns, to which slivers of garlic clung like passengers on the Titanic, until the softer plumpness of prawn meat sang from the inside. Textures and flavours came together in a satisfying morsel of meat (ok, seafood).

More garlic to enliven the prawns

Having patiently waited its turn, the Gorgonzola Croquette (RM10 for small, RM20 for large) at last had its chance for glory, and this was the epitome of simple comfort delivered with crunchy, oozy perfection. A sphere of gorgonzola was encased in a breadcrumb jacket and fried to crispness, allowing the creamy cheese to come delicately gushing out upon mouth entry. Order a plateful and disappear into cheese heaven.

Gorgonzola Croquette - innocent looking ball of brilliance

Once cheese gorging had been partaken, we awaited the two tastes from the main menu. The first to arrive was the Bacalao con Crema de Guisantes (RM35), a confit of black cod that was slightly peppery and tau foo fah soft, given a sweet zing from the sloppy sautéed peppers and the green pea sauce.

Confit of Black Cod - soft, herby, and peppery

Oxtail Ravioli with Mushrooms

With an Italian in the kitchen, there was no way we were leaving without some pasta, and the Ravioli de Rabo de Toro, Calabaza y Champignon (RM25) served up another textural treat with ravioli so slippery and light it would have escaped the tongue were it not for the meaty nugget of oxtail inside, anchoring it to the mouth. A pumpkin puree didn’t offer quite as much sweetness as one would have hoped, but the dash of mushrooms were yummy and the meaty, rich sauce that brought it all together did so with winning herby-ness.

Plenty of tasty oxtail meat hiding inside...

White Chocolate Pudding

For all the fancy names and careful presentation, this was simple, tasty food that delivers the feeling of comfort much needed after a long day’s work. The theme was to be continued into dessert, where we were lucky enough to taste a pudding yet to make it onto the menu.

A white chocolate sponge pudding sat looking innocently cake-like but revealed a soft, oozy interior of sweetness once the spoon broke through the slightly crisp, browned exterior. The cooking was a little inconsistent – my pudding gushed gooey goodness while my companions held itself together, albeit with soft, mushy deliciousness. Both versions were tasty, especially with the ginger sorbet that added a zing to the rich pudding.

Oooo watch it ooooze

The current deli area

Tummies full and happy, we commended Chef Riccardo on his menu, and he nodded with the confidence of a chef who knows that the product speaks for itself – he won’t negotiate on his authentic cooking and it makes all the difference. Plans are a-plenty at Mediteca too, and pork seekers will be relieved to hear that the pig will be making an appearance very soon, with a counter that will slice up hams from Italy and Spain at the nod of a customer’s head.

Chef Riccardo stops to chat

“I have been here long enough to realise that local people will travel a long way for a good pork dish,” said the Chef, “so pork will be on its way soon.” The diners may come for the pork, but they will stay for the authentic food, the stylish interiors, and the sense that, underneath all the fancy parmesan shavings, the plates hold nothing more than comforting classics. Expect prices to match the central location and you will be pleasantly surprised; medium rather than expensive, this is an affordable option for those on a quest for authentic food.

Mediteca

Frasers Place

Jalan Perak

50450 Kuala Lumpur

03.2181 2426

www.meditecawinetapas.com  

Open: Monday-Saturday 11.30am-late

Pork-free (temporarily)