Silverspoon Trattoria @ Publika: A Bit of Everything

What: Silverspoon Trattoria @ Publika, Publika, Solaris Dutamas, Malaysia

When: January 2013

Food: fusion (emphasis on Western)

Rating: 6/10

I am a huge fan of Publika – everything that calls this artsy little mall home seems to be quirky and interesting – and so when Monica from The Yum List invited me along to try an eatery at Publika that I had yet to taste I was game, as always!

Silverspoon Trattoria @ Publika is the second location for this restaurant (its original branch is in Kepong) and despite opening just seven months ago in July 2012, it is already on its second chef. That said, it continues to draw locals and expats for the drinks and the comfortable, tasty food that is promised on the menu.

A spacious terrace is the spot for people watching

The outside seating area of large wooden tables was humming with conversation as we arrived, while the quieter interior was subtle yet stylish, finding the happy medium between a relaxed environment (chalkboards, screens showing football) and a classy dining establishment (low lighting, long lines of wine bottles, fancy fixtures).

Comfy yet sleek inside

Some creative touches are lovely – light fittings made of spoons or glass bottles – and the kitchen is visible at the back of the restaurant to allow the curious to see the chef in action.

Silver spoons! But of course...

Chef Gobi had time to chat

But we didn’t need to press our noses against the kitchen window to get close to the chef: Chef Gobi was swift to come and join us with a relaxed swagger and jovial chuckle for a lengthy chat about everything from breakfasts to balsamic vinegar. He is one of the few local chefs I have encountered who delights in mingling with his guests; “I love meeting people,” he declared happily, “plus I think it is really important that chefs come out and meet their guests. It makes all the difference!”

He has no secrets when it comes to his food either, and was happy to tell us all about how he makes his dishes and be honest about the un-categorisable cuisine offered at Silverspoon – “we are not Italian or Spanish,” he said, “we are open, free. People enjoy lots of different things, so I use whatever I like to make nice food!”

The newspaper menu is stamped with the opening date - 28 July 2012

That said, with his background in European food (Chef Gobi worked in La Bodega for ten years and says he loves Spanish food), there is a clear influence of the northern continent on the Chef’s menu, so expect salads, soups, pizzas, pastas, risotto, cheese galore, and the odd French phrase thrown in as you peruse the clear, comprehensive menu mocked out like a newspaper (a cute touch!).

But not a morsel was to pass our lips before we encountered the fabulous drinks menu, where page after page of cocktails, mocktails, wines, beer, juices, and coffees bamboozle the thirsty. Mojitos are a must here, and we tried four of the best, from the potent Monster Mojito (RM29.50) to the zingy, pleasing Citrus Ginger Mojito (RM24.50), while the Fruitti Tutti (RM24.50) is a must for anyone with a sweet tooth and a weakness for strawberries.

Mojito mania!

Teetotalers can also have a blast here, with fruity ice teas, detox juice mixes, smoothies, and thick fluffy coffees that will be the ideal companion to an item off the new breakfast menu, which is coming soon.

Or perhaps an ice tea or detox juice?

Snails in cream and butter - the French know food!

Lunch was the order of the day for us, and proceedings started with the Baked Escargot a la Bourguignone (RM26), a fancy name for a simply splendid snail starter that cooks the little critters in a rich butter and port-brandy sauce, mopped up with toasted bread.

The only logical next step was to pizzas, and the restaurant has recently thrown in an option of a charcoal base (one of the many new flourishes brought by Chef Gobi), which gives your pizza derriere a spooky black colour that does little to the taste but, allegedly, much for the health (apparently charcoal if good for you...).

Haiwaiian BBQ Chicken pizza

Good to share...better to eat all on your own!

Our black beauty was a Hawaiian BBQ Chicken (RM28), so the excellently crispy and crunchy base was topped with tender slice of chicken, a sprinkling of pineapple, just enough BBQ sauce for a zing, and enough cheese for a stringy separation without being overcheesy. Light yet tasty, if the others on the pizza list can compete, then pizza is definitely a smart order (a pear and duck pizza caught my eye – good to see the chef’s creativity coming through).

Pasta was next to be tasted, and the Spaghetti with Shrimp Tom Yam Ragu and Grilled Prawns (RM26) is something of a signature here, and expertly blends the spicy tang of Thai soup with plump seafood and slippery spaghetti in a very satisfying bowlful. 

Spaghetti with Shrimp Tom Yam Ragu and Grilled Prawns

A mighty stack of Chicken al Parmigiana

Just as satisfying was the Chicken al Parmigiana (RM29), a whopper portion for the price and a dish that is a real comfort hit thanks to the breaded chicken fillets being topped with browned turkey ham, slices of aubergine, lots of gooey cheese, and plenty of Napolitano sauce. The splash of salad was welcome, and while the turkey ham was a little flaccid and added little, the chicken-cheese-tomato sauce combination is a winning no-brainer: always delicious.

Chef Gobi was eager for our comments, and even more eager to talk about his plans – he has only been with the restaurant since December and is chomping at the bit to make changes and add his creative flourish. His Valentine’s Day menu is set to give patrons a taste of his capabilities, and it will be interesting to see what the enthusiastic, jolly chef will do in the coming months. 

Hoping for some secrets, perhaps?

 Underneath all the ideas, though, is a man committed to value for money and tasty food, and it is reassuring to hear that satisfaction of the customer will not get forgotten in the whirl of ideas. “You have to be confident with your food,” he explains, as the plates are cleared and we settle in for another mojito (buy three for RM65++!), “but is ultimately about the customer. If I see empty plates, then I go to bed a happy man.”

Go to Silverspoon for reliable, recognisable food with just enough creative intent to break from the norm. Plates are piled high, the drinks are endless, and it will be equally friendly on wallet and tum.

Silverspoon Trattoria @ Publika

Publika

1 Jalan Dutamas

Solaris Dutamas

50480 Kuala Lumpur

03.6201 6800

www.silversp.com.my

Open: daily 11am-11pm (open from 9am as of Feb 2013)

Pork-free