Cedar on 15 in Impiana KLCC Hotel: Scaling New Heights

What: Cedar on 15, Impiana KLCC Hotel, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

When: January 2013

Food: Contemporary European

Rating: 9/10

It was one of those evenings when the BF and I had to pinch ourselves to believe it was true. There we were, sat in the cosy yet opulent Gastronomy Room of new restaurant Cedar on 15, sipping coffee, nibbling at surely the most indulgent chocolate dessert in the city, and watching the fountains dance outside KLCC from through the floor-to-ceiling windows. And we were in the presence of a Master Chef, who happened to be Austrian and very friendly, who created food that made us sit up and listen.

High ceilings allow the light to stream in pre-dusk

Long tables allow for large parties

Cedar on 15 is something quite special, and this is evident from the moment you enter the dining room, where a minimalist design is flicked and flashed with vivid red touches, funky light fittings, and gorgeous fresh orchids. For the ultimate experience, the Gastronomy Room seats 12, and if you can tear your eyes from the stupendous view, there is a Chef’s Table – with direct access to the kitchen – where your meal is presented to you by the Master himself.

The Gastronomy Room - privacy and pampering

Master Chef Helmut Lamberger

Only opening for dinner, this restaurant offers a dinner to remember thanks to the lively, creative mind of Chef Helmut Lamberger, who brings 30 years of experience to his role at Cedar on 15 and a passion for modern contemporary cuisine that incorporates flashes of innovative brilliance with quality ingredients and filling flavours.

Chef Helmut has been in Malaysia on and off for 10 years and loves the country, but perhaps not as much as he loves cooking. He started as a pastry chef, an interest that took root during his infant days when his Mum would take him daily to a bakery for cheesecake: “I wanted to be able to make that cheesecake!” he laughs. 

Dishes served by the man who created them

He has worked for a number of hotels and in a number of different countries, but here with the Impiana KLCC Hotel he was handed the creative reins for the new restaurant, and every dish on the menu is a baby of his, lovingly developed and endlessly critiqued: “I always want to know what is new, I always want to change things” he explains.

But he clearly knows when he is on to a winner, and all the dishes that came from the kitchen during my meal were delightfully presented and deliciously balanced, with every ingredient having been picked with care and contributing to the overall effect.

Mocktails and cocktails equally delight!

The best way to kick off proceedings is with a drink, and the beverage choice is wonderful, whether you opt for alcohol or not. Innovative mocktails use a lot of local ingredients, and we enjoyed the Lemongrass Lemonade (RM18) with lemongrass, lime, Monin Mojito Mint, and Soda (pictured left).

  For a fiery alcoholic drink, try the Mango Tango(RM25) with London Hill Dry, Chilli, Monin Spicy Mango, and Soda (pictured right). The terrace-bar area is the best place for those in the mood for drinking, and the long balcony view will surely maintain your attention until the DJ kicks off later in the night.

Pumpkin Soup has never tasted so good

I was more interested in edibles, and I learnt one thing very quickly: do not underestimate the soup. It is unlikely that you will ever have tasted anything as delicious as the Organic Pumpkin Chowder (RM25), which was creamy and sweet and smooth and dotted with the rare Pumpkin Seed Oil that Chef Helmut brings in from Austria. A small serving of dense, nutty Pumpernickel bread floats in the centre, adding a final flourish.

The more intriguing option is their signature Cream of Topin Ambur (RM25), which gives the underappreciated Jerusalem artichoke its moment of glory. 

Jerusalem artichoke makes a super soup - you'll want seconds ;)

Somewhere between a potato and a yam, Jerusalem artichoke has a wonderful earthy flavour that seems ideally suited to soups, and this one drifted down the throat with silky softness and begged for just one more spoonful.

Beef Carpaccio with burrata cheese that sings

Appetizers are certainly not mere grazing stations at Cedar’s – there are many truly great light dishes on this list, and my favourite was the Beef Carpaccio (RM52) with burrata cheese, mushrooms, rocket, and parmesan. The chef hammers the beef till flat, flavours it with herbs and cheese, and then rolls it up and slices it thinly, creating slivers of salami-like beef that is more delicate and tasty than the normal version of this.

The Best Looking Prize goes to the Tartar of Scallops (RM48), a subtle, fishy combination that is piled neatly on shaved parsnips and basil jelly, while a lengthy asparagus spear drapes itself lazily over the top. 

Pretty as a picture: Tartar of Scallops

If starters could taste this good, we could hardly imagine what might be in store for the main course. The table-wide favourite was the Pumpkin Seed Crusted Black Cod (RM72), which carried a hefty pricetag but an astonishingly good balance of textures and flavours. 

Light and lovely cod fish was set off by the crunchy pumpkin topping, while a swipe of fennel puree added an earthy softness and a dollop of mushroom chutney added an unusual sweetness that seemed to make the combination sing.

The all-out favourite was the Pumpkin Seed Crusted Black Cod

Meat lovers will start to salivate at the list of steaks, and while the West Australian Organic Outback Sirloin Steak (RM70 for 220g) arrived looking rather naked, we realised that this was the sign of a chef who knows he doesn’t need to dazzle with presentation; the meat speaks for itself.

Simply sirloin just how it should be

Cooked to perfection (it sliced easily to reveal a pinky heart), the meat was hugely satisfying alone, but taken to new heights with the addition of sauces. Sauces come free and the choice includes many that will capture the imagination. I had thought my favourite was the Mushroom Shallots sauce, so rich and thick it was, but then the Wood-Smoked Brown sauce dashed onto my plate and I was torn. This smokey, tangy creation is seriously good, with a powerful flavour that could lift even the saddest of steaks. (Add sides onto the steak for RM12 per side, and the choices include corn, mash, fries, and mushrooms).

As night falls, the view transforms

Not a scrap was wasted, not a morsel went back to the kitchen, and we smiled delightedly at one another, caught between the city skyline glowing outside the window and a charming Chef who was enjoying our pleasure more than we were! This is a restaurant that makes you feel at home, and despite serving such high-class food, you get a sense of cosy-ness, and that the meals are created to be enjoyed and not just be admired.

This is even more pertinent in the dessert department, where the choice includes the all-time favourites done superbly, and the two that arrived before us both looked stunning. We spent a good time admiring their glowing glory and felt a little guilty picking up a spoon and destroying their exteriors.

Pavlova to sweeten the soul

But we did, of course, and the Pavlova (RM20) crunched and oozed magnificently when attacked with a spoon, the light, sweet meringue mixing with the creamy layer and the fresh, sweet strawberries diving out into the mess. The BF had never had Pavlova before and was utterly delighted, while this light and lovely version brought back fond memories of dinner parties at home, when pavlova would often be on the menu (although in a more humble form!).

Lose your heart to the Chocolate Seduction...

Sweet and light is not for everyone; some have eyes only for the darker, richer stuff, and in this department there is no better place to turn than the Chocolate Seduction (RM30). You may raise your eyes at the price, but this is a serious dessert and demands attention.

Three types of chocolate have been imported for this beauty – Austrian, Swiss, and Belgian – and a trio of chocolate ganache, chocolate mousse, and chocolate sachertote come together for a mindblowing chocolate hit.

Those towers never stop looking good!

Goodness. Plates were empty, stomachs were anything but, and while the evening was disappearing and bedtime approached, it was hard to leave. Pots of tea helped put off the inevitable, and I took just a few more pictures of the glowing skyline before it seemed we had to go.

Cedar on 15 is the sort of place that is ideal for a special meal out for us ‘normal’ folk who can often afford it. The food is superb and will make any occasion memorable, and yet the edibles are still accessible, enjoyable, and filling – none of this pretentious fare that leaves you hungry for a burger afterwards!

The bar area is a great spot for a wind-down drink

If the dinner menu is out of your budget, head to the bar for a drink and something from the bar snack menu, although these won’t be snacks as you and I know it: Champignon au four, Sesame-Coated Chicken Lollipops, and Spicy Lamb Merguez Sausage are just some of the yummy bites that could keep you company while you admire the dazzling city that you have found yourself in.

Thanks to Chef Helmut for food I can’t forget and a delightful evening’s chat.   

Cedar on 15

Impiana KLCC Hotel

13 Jalan Pinang

50450 Kuala Lumpur

03.2147 1111 (ext. 3711/3320)

http://kualalumpurhotels.impiana.
com.my

Open: daily 6pm-2am

Pork-Free