A Sri Lankan Kitchen on Malaysian Shores

What: A Li Yaa, Bukit Damansara, KL
Website: www.aliyaa.com

When: May 2012

Food: Sri Lankan

Rating: 10/10

I am having a bit of a Sri Lankan moment. My connection with Sri Lanka was at nil this time last month, but an interview with the charming Sri Lankan High Commission has prompted a flurry of interest: I have already planned trip to visit the country, and am furiously reading up on the country and the culture.

A small dining room, so book your table!

Needless to say, I needed to find a Sri Lankan restaurant in KL to complete the theme, and when I heard that there were just two in the capital, and one in particular was, according to my source “absolutely fantastic”, then I knew that was where my camera and my stomach needed to head next.

With The Yum List duo and my Tall Buddy in tow, I arrived at A Li Yaa, a small, cosy restaurant tucked in a shoplot in Bukit Damansara, to be greeted by the smiling, patient Sangeeth.

Sangeeth, a Sri Lankan himself, has been involved with A Li Yaa for the last few years, and was to be an ideal guide in what was the first, comprehensive introduction to his country’s food. The restaurant itself is lovely, with a small outside area, seating for 20 downstairs and a bar and function area upstairs.

All the prints are by local artist Yusof Gajah

The place feels cosy and homely, while the plain black, white, and concrete theme is modern and stylish, and a touch of lightness added by the various vivid drawings of elephants that adorn the walls and nods to the fact that the restaurant name translates as elephant.

Jaffna Bling Bling with a Virgin Mojito

We began with a drink, and the beverage list covers a huge array of alcoholic drinks including wines, spirits, whiskeys, and cocktails, the latter of which were showcased in the form of the two of the top sellers.

The Jaffna Bling Bling (RM24) was super – a sinful and thick mix of Baileys, chocolate vodka, sugar and milk – while the Lycheetini (RM25), with its fruity mixture of lychee liquor and vodka would certainly be my order next time. Soft drinks include mocktails, fruit juices and, of course, Sri Lankan tea.

What we were all eagerly anticipating, however, was the food, and as the restaurant slowly filled up around us we ate our way through quite an extraordinary mixture of flavours. That oft heard comment that “Sri Lankan food is just like Indian food, just spicier” was proved wrong; there is so much more to this fine cuisine than that.

Ready to go!

The menu is plentiful, and represents a complete plethora of Sri Lankan food, from the normal ‘every day’ foods available on the streets, to the more fancy dishes, offering tastes from the different regions of the country. Mutton, chicken, fish, seafood, and vegetarian options are ample, as are rice dishes, breads, starters, desserts, and even some great set menu options, although the best way to enjoy the range is to order a la carte and go with lots of hungry friends.

Fish Cutlets

We began with an order of Fish Cutlets (RM15) far superior to the other versions I have tasted: meaty filling with a slight kick from the black pepper, the patties are crumbed, and fried in hot oil so they remain crisp and dry.

Sri Lankan Sambal Set - beware the the chillis!

The serving came with chilli sauce, but we preferred to taste the four varying flavours of the Sri Lankan Sambal Set (RM12).

These little condiments were just fantastic; a fiery hot chilli for the spice seekers, while a slightly minty looking sambal turned out to be grinded curry leaves and yet had so much flavour. Another was sweet and made with onions, while the orange sambal was grated coconut. The sambals would be a great addition to any dish, and I dipped into these pots all night.

Lumprais - a meal in a leaf

Next out was something from the set menu: a Lumprais (RM19-29 depending on the meat). These all-in-one dishes are steamed and served in a banana leaf, and comprise of rice topped with a fried egg and surrounded by a myriad of vegetable side dishes, sambals, and a portion of devilled curry (this one was chicken). The varying flavours were quite extraordinary – everything was tasty and different – and the combination provided a seriously good, and large, meal for one. Many customers request for the ingredients to be mixed and cooked together, which we also tried, and the taste was remarkable different, but still excellent.

The Mutton Paal Poriyal was a winner

There wasn’t time to linger, because the table was already piling up with plenty more dishes that demanded camera and mouth attention. We had three meat dishes, and a popular favourite was the Mutton Paal Poriyal (RM23) for its fragrant and tender pieces of meat, while the Prawn Masala (RM23) had a lovely rich, tomato taste.

Tender fish in the coconut curry

The Fish Curry (RM22) – reminiscent of Malay curries with the coconut broth and hint of sweetness – had to be eaten with the serving of Spring Hoppers or Idiyappam (RM8). These curious things are made using rice flour dough that has been sieved into little noodles and then fried to make lacy pancakes, but they were lovely and light and mopped up the coconut gravy in style.

String Hoppers: thankfully no relation to the grass hopper

Doosara Roti with a serving of coconut sambal

In the carbohydrate department we were treated to a vast serving of Briyani (RM5) which had so much flavour on its own, although the Doosara Roti (RM8) upstaged it by being so darn tasty. This pan-grilled flatbread was made with coconut, onion, and dried chilli, and the thin bread was firm and slightly chewy with a wonderful herby flavour. This was perfect for dipping in everything that we could reach and would be a lovely supper to accompany a cool beverage.

Brinjol Moju: looks gross, tastes amazing

Vegetables were represented in two dishes, and the Brinjol Moju (RM10) was my absolute standout favourite. Small pieces of aubergine were fried and then combined with spices and vinger, and the result was something unattractive, sticky, but utterly delicious in its combination of sweetness with a hint of sour.

Aubergine made another appearance in the Eggplant Sambal (RM10), which more resembled a salad of fried aubergine mixed with onions, tomatoes, chilli and squeezed with lime, and this was wonderful.

Aubergine Sambal

The piece de resistance was still to come, and Chinese come from all over town with an eye for just one thing: crab (RM12.90 per 100g). We were introduced to the poor beast before it met its end, and then it reappeared on a plate, slathered in masala sauce, and we set to breaking and peeling and licking.

Ladies and Gentlemen, meet your dinner

We were impressed with the amount of meat and quality of the flesh (we had an 800g serving), plus the sauce was thick, spicy, and delicious. The crabs are Sri Lankan mud crabs and flown in live. They can be ordered various ways, although Colombo style (that we had) is the most popular.

Main courses were at an end, as were our stomach capacity, yet we still managed to find space to squeeze in a taste of the appams, of which there is a whole mini section. Appams (4 for RM20) are little pancakes cooked in a domed pan, and the savoury versions at A Li Yaa are either with our without an egg cooked in the middle. While many diners avoid the eggy version, upon tasting it I was surprised at how well the plain pancake and the fluffy egg work together.

Appam with Egg - simply but lovely

Heavenly, heavenly sweet appam

We thought we couldn’t eat another thing, but that was until the sweet appams arrived. These appams were the plain pancakes as before, but were filled with a swirling of coconut cream and brown sugar that was thick in texture and almost custard-like in taste. The warm pancakes just melted in the mouth underneath the warm, sweet filling: utterly, utterly heavenly, and a must-order for anyone in need of a treat.

By the time the meal ended, I was just in love with the food. It was superb – the flavours, the colours, the variety, the careful attention, the matching wines – everything, right down to the cosy yet sleek venue and the attentive and patient staff.

The bar upstairs is very cool

We adjourned upstairs to admire what will eventually become the ‘Blue Elephant Jazz Bar’ where a live band will play in months to come, before bidding farewell to our wonderful host. “What we offer is quite special,” Sangeeth stressed - I couldn’t be more in agreement – “and many of these home-cooked meals are hard to find. I love working here – I get to eat the food I love every day!”

Happy, and very full food bloggers!

While these premises may be new for the restaurant, it has a four year legacy in the capital and, as word spreads about the fantastic service and wonderful food, I have no doubt that the little shoplot will be packed. The food is priced medium to high – this is a special meal rather than a weekday haunt – but entirely justified in the quality of the dishes.

Thank you to Sangeeth and the staff at A Li Yaa for looking after us so carefully and for introducing me to the fantastic food of Sri Lanka. I will certainly be back!  

     

Creativity, Cameras, and Curious Combinations

What: Villa Danieli, Sheraton Imperial, KL

When: May 2012

Food: Italian

Rating: 9/10

Two wonderful events coincided this month. I purchased myself a brand new camera (after much deliberation) and found myself at the cosy, welcoming Villa Danieli for a food review: stomach hungry for food and fingers eager to snap something with my new toy.

I do love Villa Danieli. It sits by the hotel swimming pool and is decorated charmingly with warm colours and cosy touches, while the patterned-top tables are perfectly laid, as if eagerly awaiting the meal. 

I was here to meet Chef Alessandro Graziosi, the new (3 months) resident chef and a friendly, humble man with a huge passion for food that started at age 17. “I have loved being able to create new dishes for the new menu,” he told us, “and have touched on all different Italian regional cuisines.” 

Chef Alessandro: eloquent with words and food

His creativity was honed in (one of his many) a job as a caterer, where he was called upon to provide innovative canapés for some seriously swanky events. “Companies like Dolce & Gabbana would insist on everything being just black and white, or just red,” he told me over the counter separated his open kitchen from the dining area, “and I enjoyed having to be creative.”

He has certainly allowed his creativity to shine in the new menu, and just glancing down the list of the things we were to try – taster portions of various starters, pastas, mains and desserts – was enough to show that here was a man who knew flavours well enough to experiment with confidence.

Caning and Monica from The Yum List

While The Yum List Duo and I (the only non-Malaysians ergo the only people there on time) waited for the rest of the party to arrive, we dipped the fresh, homemade bread in olive oil and balsamic vinegar and prepared ourselves for the feast to come. When it finally appeared soon after our fellow diners, we were greeted with four small portions of items from the starter menu, all exquisitely presented and all offering an interesting combination of flavours.

The La Caprese di Bufala Villa Danieli (buffalo mozzarella with cherry tomato confit and basil) was subtle and lovely, the high-quality ingredients speaking for themselves, while the Scamorza all Griglia con Crudaiola di Verdure (crispy Scarmorza cheese with vegetables) was a little chewy, although that could be because we spent so long snapping photos! 

What a way to start!

My favourites were the two fish starters; the Vitello Tonnato al Tartufo Nero (tuna tartare stuffed inside veal carpaccio with black truffle flakes) was excellent, while the Alici Marinate al Mediterranea (fresh sardines with garlic parsely pesto, citrus olive oil, vegetables and shellfish bisque gelatine) was fresh and subtle, the flavours blending well.

Homemade Pasta

Next came the pastas – you cannot eat Italian without tasting pasta! – and I was pleased to hear that all are pastas are homemade in-house, giving that lovely, soft texture and fresh flavour that transforms a decent pasta into a super one. 

Italian food without wine? Impossible!

While not a big pasta fan myself, I was pleasantly surprised by the Taglioloni Gamberi e Funghi Porcini (taglione with tiger prawns and porcini mushrooms with garlic and basil), which seemed to perfectly combine the richness of the garlic with the subtle taste of the mushrooms, while the tiger prawns were meaty yet plain, allowing the sauce to bring them to life. The stand-out was the Mezzelune di Patate, Ricotta e Limone in Salsa di Spigola al l’Acquapazza, which was a ravioli made from potato, ricotta, and lemon and just as wonderful as it sounds with its silky soft texture and tangy, creamy flavour.

The main courses were fantastic

Chef Alessandro promised me that the main courses were worth waiting for, and he certainly delivered. Looking as perfect as ever on the large, square plate, each taster was good enough to make me long for the full-size portion, and yet I was grateful to have a taste of all of them! Fish fans will be aghast at the Merluzzo al la Mediterranea con Purea di Ceci all’oilo, which was a piece of cod-fish softer and more luscious than any I have tasted before. The outer layer was slightly browned, and the flesh just melted into the accompaniment of tangy olives, sweet tomato sauce, and nutty chickpea mash. Paradise on a plate.

And another one...

The other fish main course couldn’t quite live up to its predecessor, although still performed well. The Costata di Rombo con le Sue Pancetta Croccanti e Tartar di Melanzane e Zucchine consisted of a fair piece of fish t-bone that was a bit overcooked, although the crunchy, deep-fried belly was a fantastic textural companion, and the blanched zucchini enhanced with seasoning offered a nice flavour.

It was a school night...so carrot juice for me

I had inadvertedly saved the best for last; the Filetto di Manzo all Rossini, Salsa al Marsala e Miele, Purea di Zucca al l’Olio e Verdure Salta may have looked like a faily normal lump of beef tenderloin topped with foie gras, but the taste was astounding. The beef (cooked perfectly) was paired with just the right amount of rich foie gras and sweetened wonderfully with a honey Masala jus, while a sloppy patch of mashed pumpkin offered the ideal textural coupling.

A little space for pudding?

I was full by this point, of course, but yet I was eagerly awaiting the trio of desserts in order to get a final glimpse of Chef Alessandro’s inspired combinations. We all made a beeline for the Gelato di Parmigiano, Asparagi Glassati al Miele e Tarufo Nero because, let’s face it, when have you ever seen parmesan ice cream paired with honey glazed asparagus and topped with a black truffle? It looked cheekily like vanilla, and the first taste was cold and smooth before the cheesy flavour snuck through to make you curious for another spoonful. I liked it, but it would not be for everyone; those with a sweet-tooth would be left unsatisfied, but I found it curiously refreshing and charmingly innovative.

The Cheese cake di Ricotta in Salsa al Limone con Zeste Candite e Composta di Fragole cruised into safer dessert territory, and was a real winner at our table. A meltingly soft pastry case was filled with thick, sweet ricotta and given a friendly tangy streak from lemon zest, and a fruity pat from strawberry compote. My notes just say “v.good” – I was too busy eating!

A rich and creamy Tiramisu

I thought of the Mother as I took a spoon to her favourite dessert: Tiramisu. Presented in a neat glass to display the various chocolately, moussey, creamy, coffee-infused layers, this was a classic dessert done to high Italian standards.

Chef Alessandro breezed out from the kitchen and asked how everything was, and we were all vocal in our appreciation of his craft. Villa Danieli has always offered good food, but I believe Chef Alessandro – with his creativity and his flair for crafting big flavours from interesting combinations of simple ingredients – has raised the standards. This is a superb place for a cosy, romantic meal and diners with an urge for Italian should not miss tasting his new menu.

Thanks to Evelyn from the Sheraton Imperial for the invite, to Chef Alessandro for incredible food, and to the staff at Villa Danieli for looking after us all so well. A big thumbs up from myself, my stomach, and my new camera.

Covering all Corners

What: Citrus, Bangsar Village II, KL

When: May 2012

Food: International

Rating: 9/10

I have got to the stage where I am a little sceptical about cafes that look to funky and modern; eateries with decor that is just too polished. As so many meals in the strangest, oldest, tumbledown places turn out to be delicious, a cute and stylish little cafe in Bangsar Village II was just bound to be overpriced and under-delivered, right? So was my cynical assumption when I arrived at Citrus for lunch and, wonderfully, I was to be proved supremely incorrect.

A good kids menu makes Citrus a good choice for Mums

I loved the decor of Citrus immediately and, despite being small, it is cosy, stylish, and colourful, with a display of cakes at the counter and a list of specials on the blackboard to tempt before you have sat down. The seating area extends out into the mall area, and that is where we parked ourselves and began perusing what turned out to be a very wide ranging menu. From Pakistani breakfasts to burgers, char kway teow to beef stew, the menu seemed to touch on so many different food types that my scepticism was heightened; how can they offer so much and still make it tasty?

Choices...choices...

Part owner Shaesta Said, who bustled in to meet us during our lunch, was on hand to explain the logic. “I grew up in Singapore, but am ethnically Pakistani,” she says, “so I just wanted to pick all the things I liked to eat! Plus one of my chefs specialises in Italian food, so he added a lot of interesting things.” Shaesta was a lawyer in a former life, but took the step of opening a cafe a year ago and has made it look easy, especially when I discover that she has two young children and a clothing shop to manage too! “Oh I enjoy it,” she smiles pleasantly, and then begins to guide us towards the ‘must-trys’ on a menu that, as of June, will be upgraded and enhanced (note that we ordered off the old menu, so prices may have changed).

I remain alone in my joy of Beetroot Juice

Even the drinks posed the usual challenge – too much choice! Hot and cold beverages are equally tempting, from flavoured coffees to smoothies, virgin mojitos to pots of tea, there is ample choice to be had, but I simply couldn’t not order a Beetroot Juice (RM11); my beloved beetroot! It arrived looking beautifully purple and tasting fresh and yummy, though an acquired taste, as my colleagues wrinkled their noses and went for sweeter drinks: a Pineapple Smoothie (RM8.90) and a Virgin Iced Lemonade Margherita (RM8.90), the latter of which was refreshing, sweet, and sour.

Thanks to Shaesta’s guidance, food choices were swiftly made, and our first to arrive was the starter/salad of Aloo Chat (RM17.90); an unusual creation of Citrus’ that mixes potatoes, chickpeas, fried pastry slices, spices, yoghurt and tamarind in a creamy, sweet salad. I wasn’t entirely sold on it, but it was innovative, packed with flavour, and delivered a refreshing creamy taste.

The Aloo Chat melted into a mush fairly quickly

The Philly Steak Sandwich was unexpectedly delicious

The main courses arrived soon after, and the Philly Steak Sandwich (RM19.90) proved to not only be a very generous portion (two small eaters could easily share), it tasted utterly marvellous too. Thin slices of beef (and plenty of them) were complemented by caramalised onions, cheese, and a spread of mayo on a long sub that was accompanied with salad and fries. I would never think to order this myself, but I loved it! Other sandwich choices demand a return visit: Chicken Tikka Sandwich, Chicken and Mushroom, even Quesadillas!

That is what you call a serious portion of fishy things

We were soon accosted with another huge plate, this time it was Pan-Fried Cod with Tiger Prawns and Scallops (RM43.90) and it proved to taste as good as it looked. The cod was soft but slightly crispy outside and perfectly, subtly flavoured, while the scallops and prawns were decent (not my thing), and all was drizzled in a lemon butter sauce. Hidden beneath the piles of fish were lumps of buttery potato and a generous serving of vegetables, and this again would be a decent meal for two small eaters to share!

To dip our toes in the Asian side of the menu, we tried the Pakistani Chicken Curry, which proved in an instant that Citrus understands Asian food as much as it does Western (one of the chefs is Pakistani). The dish of chicken curry was big on chicken and on flavour, with lovely meaty, soft flesh to soak up the coconut-y gravy. The naans were fresh, fluffy with not a trace of oil, while even the dhal was fresh and far superior to banana leaf versions. 

Pakistani Chicken Curry as it should be

 These were all our stomachs could handle over lunch, but there is so much more to be tasted: pizzas, pastas, the various Pakistani dishes, Malaysian ‘nasi’ plates, noodles, salads; there is even a great kids menu with all the usual fish fingers, pizzas, and pasta choices to keep small eaters happy.

Citrus offer a set lunch, which changes monthly and, for RM18.90++, lunchers enjoy either a drink or a starter, followed by a main course. And then there is breakfast! Starting from 9.30am, the breakfast menu is a treasure, and again encompasses traditional Asian breakfasts (Pakistani dishes, nasi lemak), Western dishes (huge fry ups with juice and tea for RM23.90), and creations of their own (Berry Banana French Toast with Honey). It is, however, a halal eatery, so don’t expect pork!

In our state of near explosion, we literally couldn’t handle pudding, although the list was impressive and the news that Shaesta bakes many of the cakes herself (in her spare time?!) added an extra charm. Pisang Goreng (fried bananas) with ice cream (RM6.90) is a popular tea-time treat, as are slices of carrot cake, red velvet cake, and homemade brownies, while the Citrusmisu (RM13.90) is a creamy creation of the chef’s and a rather rich treat. 

As we walked back to the car after a cheery goodbye from Shaesta, we were still gushing about the Philly Steak Sandwich and wondering how we could have overlooked Citrus for so long. The prices are reasonable – certainly a little cheaper than nearby cafes such as Plan B and Delicious – and the food is first-class. Plus there is a warm-hearted, hardworking woman behind it, and not a huge company grinding every last penny out of their customers, and that homely vibe extends to the friendly service. With a menu as fantastic as that and a super little set-up to boot, we struggled to find fault with Citrus, and will be back at the next available opportunity!

It’s Pho Time

What: Saigon Village Restaurant, Jalan Barat (off Jalan Imbi), KL

When: April 2012

Food: Vietnamese

Rating: 6/10

Nothing cheers up a busy working day than a Vietnamese lunch. Two of my colleagues and I were downtown interviewing a man who sells carpets (as one does), and as the appointment led us conveniently to the lunch hour, I was easily persuaded to, rather than rush back to the office to plough on with work, join my charming pals in a Vietnamese treat.

I don’t think I have eaten in a Vietnamese restaurant since I was in Vietnam, and so upon arriving at Saigon Village, a scruffy but cheery restaurant off Jalan Imbi, my mind was mulling on my adventures in the aforementioned country and my mood was buoyant.

Vietnamese restaurants are dotted around KL, but most are pretty pricey. Saigon Village is a cheap and cheerful taste of Vietnam, and as they offer very reasonable lunch set menus, the place was bustling when we arrived at 1pm.

The value of the set lunch draws the crowds

Large round tables dot the rectangular dining room, while faded Vietnamese pictures and art works adorn the walls. We grabbed a table and were quickly thrown menus as the staff rushed around trying to serve the crowd.

Super-fast soup delivery

The main menu offers a lot of different dishes, most of which are designed to be shared, and these include many different meats, fish, vegetables, as well as noodles and rice dishes. The set lunch menu offers a whole page of options (with pictures, hurrah) including rice and noodle combinations, and is priced at RM8.90 including soup, dessert, and either Chinese tea or water.

Although we were here for the bargain of a set lunch, I let my eyes stray to the full menu and spotted something that made my heart sing and my mind fly back to a wet afternoon in Dalat with a dishy Vietnamese biker. Spring rolls! I couldn’t resist. I ordered soup as well, and once my colleagues had placed their orders we were instantaneously given bowls of soup, a huge jug of tea and a box of ice.

Oli enjoys her soup

The soup was lovely, although not particularly Vietnamese. It was thick, gloopy, and slighty sweet, with various floating things including spring onions, shredded chicken, and slivers of tofu. I added a dash of chilli and it was quite satisfying if not anything special.

We waited a very long time for our main courses (one of the waiters came rushing over with our dessert and we had to point out that we were not there yet) but eventually they came, and my plate of Vietnamese Spring Rolls (RM7.90) was just what I fancied. Sitting on a bed of vermicelli noodles and cucumber was a fat roll of paper-thin crepe stuffed with more vermicelli noodles, a tender meaty prawn and some vegetables. 

Vietnamese Spring Rolls took me back down memory lane

Grilled Lemongrass Chicken did a good job

Dipping it in the various sauces that came with it – fish oil, chilli, and sweet plum sauce – brought the subtle, fresh flavours to life. It may not have been as good as the real thing, but it was pretty close. Accompanying the spring roll were two deep-fried things that appeared to be some sort of fish meat (may be crab) in a patty that had been battered and deep-fried. The taste was good, and the meat was decent, but these were very oily and greasy, which made them a little disappointing.

Oli had ordered Grilled Lemongrass Chicken with Tomato Rice from the set menu, and this was a decent plateful. The chicken meat was, considering the price, surprisingly good if rather boney, and with a subtle but pleasing taste of lemongrass.

Not just fried rice...Vietnamese fried rice

 Charles had ordered the Vietnamese Fried Rice (did they really need to call it ‘Vietnamese’ if we were in a Vietnamese restaurant?) which tasted and looked as one would expect, with bits of chicken and seafood mixed in with the rice and vegetables.

A plate of watermelon and papaya served as dessert, and as we skewered our fruit on toothpicks, we agreed that while the food was nothing extraordinary, it was excellent value for money and, considering the cost, fairly decent. 

Charles and I: Two hungry diners!

For me, it was just refreshing to have some Vietnamese food for a change, and the menu offered a good range of dishes that travellers will recognise from the eateries of Vietnam. The service was a little slow, but some of the staff actually seemed to be Vietnamese which was a plus point!

Nothing fancy, but a nice change and a welcome break from a desk-bound lunch.

Time to head back to the office...